Winemakers: Steve Baraglia & Andrew Kenny

I love the savouriness of this release! It’s initially quite understated, but some vigorous glass swirling coaxes a cornucopia of both herbal and culinary scents: gardenia, Belladonna lily and jasmine, muddled with the kitchen-bench smells of lardo, lime zest, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger.

The palate is full, surprisingly rich and the expected varietal line of acidity feels diffused, giving an impression of softness against the gums. Sure, there’s a squeeze of Tahitian lime, but this isn’t a simple formulaic Bickford’s-lime Clare Riesling. The genius of Steve Baraglia and Andrew Kenny has ensured that the wine is a sum of more than its parts, showcasing Urth’s unusual depth and complexity. Surely a wine to encourage non-Riesling drinkers to explore a different, though still classic interpretation of my favourite grape variety.