Winemaker: Marco Cirillo
Marco Cirillo is a ninth Generation grape grower and winemaker, whose forebears hailed from Calabria in Italy’s deep south. In 1959, Marco’s father Vince purchased one of the oldest surviving patches of Grenache Noir in the Barossa, a vineyard planted in 1848. Since 2003, Marco has made what is now one of the most defining of Barossa wines, from a grape variety that for too long remained in the shadow of Shiraz.
This is the fifth consecutive release of the 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that I have been making with Marco Cirillo since our first collaboration back in 2017. However, it’s only the second release of 440 where the fruit was sourced from Sam and Sharon Schmidt, fastidious growers in the Siegersdorf subregion of the Barossa. The Schmidt’s vineyard is planted in deep white sand, which appealed to all of Marco’s vinous sensibilities: it’s a very similar terroir to that which nourishes his famous Nuraip Road 1850 Grenache vineyard.
Barossa Cabernet can be one of the most androgenous wines produced in our region. The usual regional preference for riper fruit tends to diminish varietal definition. The methoxypyrazines which help distinguish Cabernet from Shiraz become much less apparent when the grapes are picked at over 15 Baumé (Bé). Perhaps many Barossa Cabernets should be labelled as ‘Dry Red’?
From the beginning, Marco and I were determined to make a Cabernet that actually looked like Cabernet. The first few releases featured sequential fermentation of multiple picks, where we were able to harvest natural acidity and varietal ‘leafiness’ at 10°Bé, before capturing some richness at 12°Bé and 14°Bé.
During the warm 2019 and 2020 vintages, fruit ripened too rapidly to follow this formula but again, we picked earlier than most producers, and both these vintages of 440 retained poise and shape, albeit with softer, richer flavours.
This new release from the cooler 2021 vintage is one of the most complex wines that has worn an Otherness label. Aromas of bay leaf, heather and saltbush mingle with Cabernet Sauvignon’s usual suspects, violets and cassis. Where we often see chocolate and tapenade flavours in the Barossa, here I note coffee grounds and red earth.
Wet slate minerality and very a fine talcy, sensual tannin structure keeps the oral membranes interested, while a fine line of natural acidity gently guides the wine to the back of the throat. There is no regional heaviness or harshness. The wine really is a delight to drink with your favourite red meat dish or a shard of hard cheese.
You will note that the 2021 is now sealed with a screwcap. We defer to the particular preference of each participating winemaker. Marco has prevailed, suggesting that the wine will remain fresher for longer under Stelvin.
We never make much 440. Just two hogsheads.
